by Guest » Tue Jan 20, 2009 01:05 am
Hey everyone I'm new here. Anyways I have a few questions. I need some help and advice. I was hit by a lady the other day. Ok. Anyhow, I filed a claim with their insurance company. I talked to the claims adjuster and accord to the information I have given him, he's going to write the car off as a total loss. I don't understand why though since the vehicle is NOT totaled. They are going to take 100% liability for the accident. Heres the damages listed below.
The following is all on the driver side
1. Fender
2. Bumper
3. Corner light
4. Small dent on the door
5. Mirror
6. Small dent on the quarter panel by the wheel well
7. The upper ball joint popped out of the A-Arm (camber)
Anyways, I'm fine if they make it a total loss BUT I worried here. If they call it a total loss then do they pay me the book value and keep the car and then offer me so to buy it from them for so much money? If so, then why? That isn't right. How much should I except them to consider the value of the car? Heres info of the car.
1. 1992 Honda Prelude Si
2. 203xxx miles
3. A/T Transmission (No fluid leak, doesn't slip, shifts good)
4. before the wreck, no dents or dings what so ever, no scratches (just one or two scuff marks), no fading paint, a few small chips on the hood, no rust, no clear coat peeling
5. No cracked windows, tail lights, head lights, mirrors, turn signals, corner lights or side markers.
8. No engine knock, no oil leak and doesn't burn oil and doesn't smoke.
9. Power steering. (Doesn't leak)
10. Power steering, tilt steering, cruise control, power windows, e-brake, power sunroof/moonroof, A/C, Heater, CD player, power locks and all warning lights work.
11. digital temperature and digital gas gauge works.
12. CD player
13. No holes, burns, stains, tears in the seats, or door panels, or head liner.
15. Engine is completely stock, no modifications
16. No mechanical problems.
Basically this car was in awesome condition.
How do I go by about what they would they consider book value? Please help I don't want to be low balled. Thanks
The following is all on the driver side
1. Fender
2. Bumper
3. Corner light
4. Small dent on the door
5. Mirror
6. Small dent on the quarter panel by the wheel well
7. The upper ball joint popped out of the A-Arm (camber)
Anyways, I'm fine if they make it a total loss BUT I worried here. If they call it a total loss then do they pay me the book value and keep the car and then offer me so to buy it from them for so much money? If so, then why? That isn't right. How much should I except them to consider the value of the car? Heres info of the car.
1. 1992 Honda Prelude Si
2. 203xxx miles
3. A/T Transmission (No fluid leak, doesn't slip, shifts good)
4. before the wreck, no dents or dings what so ever, no scratches (just one or two scuff marks), no fading paint, a few small chips on the hood, no rust, no clear coat peeling
5. No cracked windows, tail lights, head lights, mirrors, turn signals, corner lights or side markers.
8. No engine knock, no oil leak and doesn't burn oil and doesn't smoke.
9. Power steering. (Doesn't leak)
10. Power steering, tilt steering, cruise control, power windows, e-brake, power sunroof/moonroof, A/C, Heater, CD player, power locks and all warning lights work.
11. digital temperature and digital gas gauge works.
12. CD player
13. No holes, burns, stains, tears in the seats, or door panels, or head liner.
15. Engine is completely stock, no modifications
16. No mechanical problems.
Basically this car was in awesome condition.
How do I go by about what they would they consider book value? Please help I don't want to be low balled. Thanks
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 02:09 am Post Subject:
I've seen around that they kind of go by the NADA but why so? This is not accurate at all. It claims that my car, if in excellent condition, with 1 mile, would be worth $5,000.... which isn't a very poor estimate
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 06:00 am Post Subject:
An insurance company considers a vehicle a total loss usually when the cost to repair it is 80% of it's value. This is because the state sometimes requires this and if not, because with that much damage there is probably going to be additional damages found once it's torn down that will put the cost to repair over 100% of it's value.
You won't be buying the the vehicle back. If you want to keep it, the insurance company will deduct the salvage value from their offer. But... they may be required to report the vehicle as being a total loss to the state and the state may change the title to a salvage title. You may want to speak to your DMV to see what this means for you if you keep it.
Mileage on a 16 year old vehicle does not change its value much. NADA considers a vehicle to have normal wear and tear. A 16 year old vehicle would with 1 mile would not fit this category. NADA does not consider that. Does your vehicle only have 1 mile?
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 06:44 am Post Subject:
ddh, tcope has kind of answered your problem. The value in NADA may sound very low to you but the car value depreciates very fast. And even a small dent can get an old car deemed as totaled.
Is the car still drivable? You might not get any resale value on the car but you may be able to keep the car for your use.
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:27 am Post Subject:
Good morning DDH, and welcome to the community...you don't say 'which' si it is (4WS) or not..but the value change between the two is only about 100 bucks so just keep that in mind...the options are of no consequence on a vehicle this old..condition and mileage are about the only factors that come into play on vehicle this old....
First of all the list of damages you have
1. Fender
2. Bumper
3. Corner light
4. Small dent on the door
5. Mirror
6. Small dent on the quarter panel by the wheel well
7. The upper ball joint popped out of the A-Arm (camber
I can't see the dents in the door or 1/4 so no way to know how much repair time they need...upper ball joints don't just pop out...there is suspension damage, likely upper control arm, strut, and could be more...if replacing the fender, unless the vehicle is flat black, will require blending, what is the TOTAL cost of repair? What is the salvage value? I come up with an ACV (actual cash value) of 3375.00 clean retail..(january, midwest region)...now what has the carrier said? If you think your vehicle is worth more than they say it is, then you will need to prove this fact...you do that by finding 'comp' vehicles...If your vehicle is as clean as you say they may be able to add another 500 or so to the value...but if I'm reading your post right you think your vehicle is worth more than 5k? You will need to explain why you think it's worth this and (as i said) back it up with facts...so I'll ask you what do you think your vehicle is worth and why?
Does your vehicle only have 1 mile?
Nope it don't...203xxx miles
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:28 pm Post Subject:
"upper ball joints don't just pop out"
Well in my case, it did to this one. I have removed the wheel off and already examined it and that's the only mechanical problems with it. The carrier hasn't gave me a settle amount. I don't think my car is worth more than 5k. I just don't want to to low ball me and try to give me $2k and then take $500 away for me to keep it....
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:39 pm Post Subject:
alright dh sorry i misunderstood...so what do you think your vehicle's ACV is? the system the company i work for comes up with the number i posted above...does that sound about right to you? re: the upper ball joint, on your vehicle there is no upper ball joint per say, are you sure you arent' seeing the upper knuckle protector? the knuckle on this car if very tall, and i would be on some additional suspension trouble...what or how much is the estimate of repair?
Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:52 pm Post Subject:
The insurance company didn't even ask me to go have estimates done. The claims adjuster automatically said it was a totaled loss. Aren't I allowed to get an estimate of what the repair cost is?
Tomorrow he's supposed to have someone out here to examine the car and figure the ACV of the vehicle. I have jacked the car up myself and examined it myself. Nothing else is wrong it it. Axle is not broke, stabilizer bar, nothing.
Heres a picture of what I'm talking about...
i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll107/DAVIDSARAHHOUK/pinfromcastlenut.jpg
#1 Where I've circled on the image theres a ball join in the camber.
#2 Where I've circled on the image is a "A-Arm? A-frame? or Camber?"
Ok, #1 (ball joint) is supposed to be connected to the #2 but which has broke off or popped out.
WHere I've circled in white, is where the bolts are to remove this #2 part. Now this #2 part is bent. Where it's bolted on to the fiirewall itself is not messed up. It's perfectly fine. It's not popped out or dented in....
I was hoping atleast $3k for the ACV but I'll find out tomorrow I hope.
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 12:43 am Post Subject:
The insurance company didn't even ask me to go have estimates done. The claims adjuster automatically said it was a totaled loss. Aren't I allowed to get an estimate of what the repair cost is?
No there's no law or anything...if you want to get an estimate you can, but it will likely be time not spent well..
Tomorrow he's supposed to have someone out here to examine the car and figure the ACV of the vehicle.
That person will also likely write an estimate of repair, unless your vehicle is an Obvious Total Loss .I was hoping atleast $3k for the ACV but I'll find out tomorrow I hope.
I think you'll be fine, atleast by the numbers I came up with, be sure if you can be there, and discuss it calmly and no 'chips' on your shoulder until and unless there is reason for one ok? :wink: you catch a lot more flys with honey than vinegar, and adjusters are the same as anyone else, we'll go out of our way to help a nice guy, and won't move unless we HAVE to for an a**.. :wink:#1 Where I've circled on the image theres a ball join in the camber.
#2 Where I've circled on the image is a "A-Arm? A-frame? or Camber?"
Ok, #1 (ball joint) is supposed to be connected to the #2 but which has broke off or popped out.
Ok, David, the vertical metal piece that your hand is against, or that cotter pin (in your hand) is touching is the knuckle, now where you are holding that cotter pin, (two empty holes next to it) did you take that part out? There should be (or what is missing) is a knuckle protector (that's what they call it on this vehicle like a 4 dollar part...Now if you have replace that knuckle parts and labor on that (minus alignment) would run ya' about
$459.02 (that's based on labor rate for my area)...now on ward...where you have circled #1 looks like a ball joint (the rubber that is cracked and showing wear which i would expect)...however they call it a 'boot and 'circlip' on this one...replacing both of these parts run ya' about 75 bucks..a complete upper control are about 200 bucks (all of the numbers i'm giving you are w/labor)..The two white circles you have are at the back of the upper control arm, and are part of the control are there are no separate ball joints for this control arm ... Oh wait that cotter pin just came out of the pin holding the upper control arm to the knuckle isn't it?
Honey I don't know what you keep calling 'camber' ... :? camber is an adjustment measurement or parameter, every car has a tolerance.. negative and positive (as are caster, toe in, toe out) ...some vehicles there is no camber adjustment even...it sounds like you are saying 'camber' like it's a part...and it's not...(other than a camber kit etc..that is not the case here.) for instance if a tire/wheel is leaning in it likely has negative camber..transversly if leaning out could be positive camber..(caster how the tires/wheels set front to back)
Nothing else is wrong it it. Axle is not broke, stabilizer bar, nothing.
Honey you're looking too low, if this upper control arm was damaged you need to check the entire knuckle, look for rust pop (they crack and break all the time!)...also the strut...without seeing the wheel it's hard for me to say, but you'd also be smart to check your hub and bearing as well as the lower control arm too...Where it's bolted on to the fiirewall
Just an fyi, that the rail... :wink:Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 02:34 am Post Subject:
OK. The picture is one I found on the internet, so IDK about the cotter pin. Heres another pic that I have and it's a picture off of the internet too similar to what I am dealing with...
Picture
i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll107/DAVIDSARAHHOUK/crxsuspension1.jpg
Where the green mark is, it's fine not bent or mangled up.
Where the white mark is, it's all bent up and mangled up.
Where the yellow X is, this part is broke apart from the part where the white marks are.
What are these parts called? Is it just one part and the yellow mark piece, the white mark piece and the green mark piece actually just ONE whole piece? Or is the white marked piece and the yellow marked piece supposed to be one piece? I'm little confused here! :/
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:41 am Post Subject:
Where the green mark is, it's fine not bent or mangled up.
green mark is the knuckle..Where the white mark is, it's all bent up and mangled up.
white is upper control armWhere the yellow X is, this part is broke apart from the part where the white marks are.
yellow x is also the knuckle...What are these parts called?
the yellow and green are one part the knuckle..the white is a separate part the upper control arm..Is it just one part and the yellow mark piece, the white mark piece and the green mark piece actually just ONE whole piece?
nope it's two (plus ball joint and rubbers or brkts)Or is the white marked piece and the yellow marked piece supposed to be one piece?
nopeI'm little confused here! :/
that's ok ... yellow and green are one pc (knuckle) that goes all the way down to the back of the hub assy, (behind the brake rotor you see there) the upper control arm is separate from this and the knuckle attaches to the upper control arm..i would doubt that if you have damage to the upper control arm that there is not also knucke and strut damage, and likely upper rail/apron or strut tower damage as well.Add your comment